Meal review: Manna, NW3

11:33 24 May 2012

Manna, in Primrose Hill

Manna, in Primrose Hill

Archant

If you want to create high expectations of your restaurant, naming it Manna, with its heavenly connotations, is a decent place to start. It’s a brave move, but fortunately this vegan Primrose Hill institution lives up to the moniker.

Restaurant info: Manna

Manna, 4 Erskine Road, NW3 3AJ

Tube: Chalk Farm

Tel: 020 7722 8028

Web: www.mannav.com

Mains: from £11

Wines: from £20

Children welcome: yes

Disabled access: no

It’s a veggie’s paradise, one of the few places where meatless cooking is given the respect it deserves and never seen as a pale imitation.

The quality of the food is such that I’m sure most meat fanatics would barely miss the lack of dead flesh.

The eclectic menu features vegan twists to dishes from across the globe.

A mouth-watering ravioli starter, stuffed with wild mushroom and walnut paté, was deliciously complemented by fennel cream sauce and sun-dried tomato pesto. We also enjoyed some hearty cabbage spring rolls to begin.

The elegantly-furnished restaurant, which opened in the 1960s, is one of London’s oldest vegetarian eateries, and it’s clear this experience counts.

The mains were superb and perfectly presented. An Indian thali selection included a magical channa masala, the chickpeas flavoursome and soft.

But the best was the chef’s special, a wellington filled with cashews, almonds, mushrooms and sweet potatoes, accompanied by gravy and vegetables. Another divine concoction.

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