Restaurant review: Assiette Anglaise, N7

17:09 26 October 2012

The table are arranged round the central bar

The table are arranged round the central bar

Archant

»Denizens of Liverpool Road didn’t have long to bemoan the loss of their resident French restaurant when another sprang up to take its place.

Aissette Anglaise, as its name suggests, is of the Gallic persuasion. It’s an intimate kind of place where the tables and chairs are arranged round an impressive central bar, behind which a mixologist shakes up an array of libation.

Our aperitif came in the form of a French Martini (obviously) and a fruity loosener it was too.

The menu is pretty small, with just five or six mains, but all bases are covered – meat, fish, poultry, veg, etc – and it all looked pretty enticing

Steak tartar

Restaurant info:

Assiette Anglaise

489 Liverpool Road

N7 8NS

020 7609 0300

Tube: Holloway Road

Web: www.assietteanglaise.co.uk

Mains: from £13

Wine: from £16.50

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes, no toilet

To start we had a classic steak tartar, raw seasoned mince with an uncooked egg on top. Not a dish to suit everyone’s taste, but if you’re into that sort of thing that was a lovely example. It arrived perched on a home made brioche, though, and for me the sweetness of the bun didn’t work with the savoury meat.

With this we had the fish soup with Gruyère and rouille; a hearty, tasty broth and thoroughly cockle-warming.

Then we had the tender duck breast with white beans, bacon and, intriguingly, caramelised apple which was great combination of flavours.

But most impressive was the sea bass with a luxurious vanilla butter sauce; a combination I wouldn’t expect to work, but was in fact delicious as the sweetness and oceanic tang fought for the upper hand on my taste buds.

No trip to a French establishment is complete, I feel, without a visit from the cheese trolley. This one was a powerful beast, with fromage ranging from creamy Camembert to taste-bud tormenting blue. A lot of restaurants make a valiant effort to represent British cheeses on their boards, but a Gallic selection takes some beating.

Price-wise the menu is pretty reasonable, although be warned the portions are not huge and a side or two might be in order.

Assiette Anglaise is a funky, sophisticated place to eat with some compelling takes on modern French cuisine.

Related articles

Latest Stories from SNAP.PA

As a contestant on Strictly Come Dancing trying your best to scrape through to next week, that is NOT what you want to hear.

Read more

Provided of course, you exercise some careful creativity.

Read more

Promotions

AGA Living Subscription

Every issue of AGA Living magazine is packed full of celebrity AGA owner interviews, interior and design features, ideas to inspire your culinary imagination, mouth-watering recipes and inspirational shopping ideas.

Dojo gives you hand picked recommendations for events, places and activities in London

Tired of always hearing about some amazing event in London after its gone, missing out on the best activities? That’s where Dojo comes in.

Top Stories

Quizzes

Arsene Wenger and Jose Mourinho go head to head (Photo by Shaun Botterill/Getty Images)

Football managers are either deified or chastised, depending on results and they are some of the most famous faces in the country.

Read more
London is a scary place

This great city of ours is one of the most haunted places on the planet.

Read more
Roy Keane  (Photo by Dean Mouhtaropoulos/Getty Images)

Roy Keane denied the world of more glorious beard action this weekend by shaving his famous chin hair off, however football is still littered with some impressive beards.

Read more