Restaurant review: Comedor, N1

11:03 10 January 2013

Upper Street

Upper Street's Comedor Pic: ZUZANA ZAFEROVA

ZUZANA ZAFEROVA

»Comedor – which means dining room in Spanish – adopts the ambitious mantle of the pan-south American restaurant.

It’s a new concept on me, but all the classics are represented from that beguiling culinary continent – churrasco from Argentina, beans from Columbia and plenty from on-trend Peru.

In keeping with many of the eateries in Upper Street, Comedor doubles as a bar, staying open to a hangover-inducing 5am, which might not be good for the neighbours, but means the cocktail selection is up to scratch.

A pisco sour always goes down a treat and we swilled a couple of excellent varieties while watching the Islington set go about their Friday night business.

Value

Restaurant info:

Comedor Grill and Bar, 176 Upper Street, N1 1RG

Tube: Highbury and Islington

Tel: 020 7354 2843

Web: www.comedorgrillandbar.co.uk

Mains: from £6.50

Wine: from £15.50

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes

To start, I insisted my friend tried ceviche for the first time, and he wasn’t disappointed – moist, succulent chunks of pollock in a tart citrus marinade with crunchy Peruvian corn.

Meanwhile I plumped for the empanadas – cheeky and satisfying little pasties filled with spiced beef and a tangy onion relish.

We couldn’t help but notice the 700 gram steak on the menu, but instead went for something a little more tender and refined – I think the waitress was genuinely disappointed with my lack of gusto when I ordered the fillet.

It was still a fair sized cut though (300 gram) and for £21 was a bargain. Mine was a touch overdone, but the other came out perfect; charred on the outside, pink and tender in the middle.

Comedor excels on the sauce front – as well as an earthy chimichurri we had an excellent tomato and chilli Aji dip and a very garlicky alioli. The sides were also good and represented something different – sauteed sweet potato, mashed potato and squash and some very tasty re-fried beans.

Predictably, we washed all this down with a Mablec – at £18 the Trivente was a little aggressive and we might have been better off choosing the Alfredo Roca for a few pounds more.

Then in favour of a pudding we went for a rather fiery Peruvian brandy.

Not only does Comedor offers some unusual and toothsome dishes, in the main it does the old favourites well too.

The prices are cheap and the cocktails great: there is very little not to like.

Related articles

Latest Stories

16:31
Syrian activists in Kafranbel pay tribute to the murdered American war journalist

The video of US journalist James Foley being beheaded by a jihadi with what appears to be a London accent has been shared millions of times around the world already.

Read more
Hyacinth Brown is still recovering from the heart attack in hospital.

An elderly pastor suffered a heart attack after police burst through her door in an early-morning drugs raid which her family say was a “massive mistake.”

Read more
This undated image shows a frame from a video released by Islamic State militants that purports to show the killing of journalist James Foley  (AP Photo)

An American journalist has been beheaded on video by an ISIS fighter in Syria - who is believed to be from London.

Read more

Top Stories

Promotions

Advanced running and training technology for beginners up to elite athletes

If you’re thinking of adding running treadmill to your fitness routine, you’re on the right track! There are several advantages to running on a treadmill versus running outdoors.

Renault-Zoe

The Renault ZOE follows on from the introduction of the electric Fluence ZE and Twizy, but unlike the former, the ZOE was designed from the ground up as an electric vehicle.

When no simple way to find Real Ale was at hand, 4 Ale enthusiasts got together to allow anyone with a smart phone to find Real Ale no matter where they happened to be, this was the birth of the Perfect Pint app.

Quizzes

Can you find the animals hiding in London station names? (Photo by Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images)

You may not realise it but there are animals hiding in stations across London? Play our quiz and see if you can you find them:

Read more
Can you guess the Tube station just from the outside? (Photo by Oli Scarff/Getty Images)

How well do you know your Tube stations? Can you guess these Underground stops from the pictures taken outside them?

Read more
But which London?! [Photo courtesy of Basher Eyre]

You might know London like the back of your hand, but how well do you know the other Londons - and London landmarks - across the world?

Read more