Restaurant review: Comedor, N1

11:03 10 January 2013

Upper Street

Upper Street's Comedor Pic: ZUZANA ZAFEROVA

ZUZANA ZAFEROVA

»Comedor – which means dining room in Spanish – adopts the ambitious mantle of the pan-south American restaurant.

It’s a new concept on me, but all the classics are represented from that beguiling culinary continent – churrasco from Argentina, beans from Columbia and plenty from on-trend Peru.

In keeping with many of the eateries in Upper Street, Comedor doubles as a bar, staying open to a hangover-inducing 5am, which might not be good for the neighbours, but means the cocktail selection is up to scratch.

A pisco sour always goes down a treat and we swilled a couple of excellent varieties while watching the Islington set go about their Friday night business.

Value

Restaurant info:

Comedor Grill and Bar, 176 Upper Street, N1 1RG

Tube: Highbury and Islington

Tel: 020 7354 2843

Web: www.comedorgrillandbar.co.uk

Mains: from £6.50

Wine: from £15.50

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes

To start, I insisted my friend tried ceviche for the first time, and he wasn’t disappointed – moist, succulent chunks of pollock in a tart citrus marinade with crunchy Peruvian corn.

Meanwhile I plumped for the empanadas – cheeky and satisfying little pasties filled with spiced beef and a tangy onion relish.

We couldn’t help but notice the 700 gram steak on the menu, but instead went for something a little more tender and refined – I think the waitress was genuinely disappointed with my lack of gusto when I ordered the fillet.

It was still a fair sized cut though (300 gram) and for £21 was a bargain. Mine was a touch overdone, but the other came out perfect; charred on the outside, pink and tender in the middle.

Comedor excels on the sauce front – as well as an earthy chimichurri we had an excellent tomato and chilli Aji dip and a very garlicky alioli. The sides were also good and represented something different – sauteed sweet potato, mashed potato and squash and some very tasty re-fried beans.

Predictably, we washed all this down with a Mablec – at £18 the Trivente was a little aggressive and we might have been better off choosing the Alfredo Roca for a few pounds more.

Then in favour of a pudding we went for a rather fiery Peruvian brandy.

Not only does Comedor offers some unusual and toothsome dishes, in the main it does the old favourites well too.

The prices are cheap and the cocktails great: there is very little not to like.

Related articles

Sign up for our news alerts today!

Our editors' picks for the day's top news delivered to your inbox or phone.

Sign up for email alerts Sign up for mobile alerts
1
2 3 4 5 6
7

Don't Miss...

Quizzes

Fulham Wikipedia quiz

Prove your credentials as a true Fulham fan by taking our Whites Wikipedia quiz.

Read more
Crystal Palace Wikipedia quiz

Crystal Palace have had their fair share of legends down the years, with many former Eagles enjoying glittering careers.

Read more
Arsenal legend Tony Adams celebrates a goal against Manchester United at Highbury... will you be celebrating your quiz score? Picture: Allsport

This Arsenal history quiz will seperate the true fans from the rest. Test your knowledge of the Gunners’ illustrious history with 15 tricky teasers from London24.

Read more

What is this?

Near You Now