Restaurant review: House of Wolf, N1

11:50 21 December 2012

The dining room at House of wolf

The dining room at House of wolf

Amandine Alessandra

Duck on charred log and hay butter treat at wild wolf house

House of Wolf is a Victorian steam-punk inspired lair of iniquity complete with an apothecary bar, cabaret stage and fainting room.

But the top floor, a very attractive wood-clad, Alpine lodge looking affair, is given over to the dining side of things.

And in keeping with the off-key nature of the rest of the place, the kitchen is inhabited by different chefs on a short term basis – on our visit by the experimental and enthusiastic Blanche and Shock.

They’re all about the experience at House of Wolf, so it’s the whole taster menu or nothing, which is a fairly steep £45, or a bit more with matching drinks.

Restaurant info:

House of Wolf 181 Upper Street N1 1RQ

Tube: Angel

Tel: 0207 2881470 Web: www.houseofwolf.co.uk

Taster menu from around £45

Children: Yes Disabled access: No

Nothing on the menu was simple – even the bread came with hay-infused butter –and there were some interesting flavours on offer, including things I had tried before like oxalis leaf and hawberries.

The net result was a mixture of great courses, and some which were a bit over the top.

The latter included the raw prawns with lardo, mallow oil and bitter hogweed. A brave effort, but the fish, creaminess and pork fat seemed to be wrestling for supremacy in my mouth.

Chestnut smoke

The duck, however, was triumphant. It came served on a charred log with a glass full of aromatic chestnut smoke, unleashed when the platter was put in front of you.

The breast was pink and tender, the confit was full of flavour and the artichoke was a nice, fleshy aside.

Another hit was the fantastic beef, succulent flesh with thick rind of fat lending flavour to the meat, cooked to perfection with a crispy edge.

Also worthy of note was their version of ceviche – sea bass “cooked” in dill vinegar. Another bold attempt, but on the whole I prefer mine with chilli and lime.

Overall I reckon three out of the six courses were very good, which isn’t a bad ratio with this level of experimentation – which was akin to eating out in a forest.

A special mention to the staff, who knew all the complicated dishes by heart, and allowed us to sample about six wines before we chose.

Not one for safe eaters, but if you like to live life on the culinary edge, House of Wolf is well worth a look.

Related articles

Latest Stories

6 minutes ago
The Eid al-Fitr party in Trafalgar Square promises to be fun, fantastic, and free! (Photo by Daniel Berehulak/Getty Images)

Check out our five-minute guide to celebrating the end of Ramadan in London.

Read more
This version of the classic London Underground map shows the West Bank, the territory that Israel and Palestine have been fighting over for decades [Photo from Imgur, creator unknown]

This is the Underground map as you’ve never seen it before. This version purports to show the tunnels under the Gaza blockade that Hamas members are using to get supplies into Palestinian territory - and send parties of fighters into Israel.

Read more
09:06
CCTV of Jeffrey Okafor at Heathrow

A £10,000 reward is being offered for information about Jeffrey Okafor, who fled England after murdering DJ Carl Beatson Asiedu in Vauxhall, police believe.

Read more

Top Stories

Promotions

Renault-Zoe

The Renault ZOE follows on from the introduction of the electric Fluence ZE and Twizy, but unlike the former, the Zoe was designed from the ground up as an electric vehicle.

When no simple way to find Real Ale was at hand, 4 Ale enthusiasts got together to allow anyone with a smart phone to find Real Ale no matter where they happened to be, this was the birth of the Perfect Pint app.

London24 have partnered up with The Week magazine to offer you a complimentary issue – delivered free to your door.

Quizzes

But which London?! [Photo courtesy of Basher Eyre]

Yoou might know London like the back of your hand, but how well do you know the other Londons - and London landmarks - across the world?

Read more
The prize is glory (Photo by Dan Kitwood/Getty Images)

It used to be Manhattan that was famous for its majestic skyline, but now our fair city is catching up. Do you know your Shard from your Heron Tower?

Read more
Test your London musical knowledge with our album quiz (Images via Getty)

Does your music knowledge stretch from The Rolling Stones to Rudimental, Spandau Ballet to Siouxsie and the Banshees? If so then test it out with our London bands quiz:

Read more