Restaurant review: Season Kitchen, N4

12:17 30 November 2012

Season Kitchen is a quirky, firendly neighbourhood restuarant

Season Kitchen is a quirky, firendly neighbourhood restuarant

Archant

»Season Kitchen first appeared on these hallowed pages when it opened two years ago, but there are a couple of reasons why it is worth another look.

Restaurant info:

Season Kitchen

53 Stroud Green Road

N4 3EF

Tube: Finsbury Park

Tel:0207 263 5500

Web: www.seasonkitchen.co.uk

Mains: from from £1195, taster menu £24

Wine from: from £14.50 a bottle

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes, no toilets

The first of these is their “pop without the rip” policy on wines, which means a standard mark-up on all bottles, regardless of price. The menu illustrates this rather neatly by cheekily showing how much the same wine would be in other restaurants.

Our delicious rioja, a fantastic drop, was £37 – about half the price you find it in some establishments.

Secondly, the place has launched a new Sunday taster menu, which at six courses for £24 is very good value.

First up was the beetroot salad, of which I am not a great fan, but it was a nice combo with the goats curd and peppery sorrel.

Next was a slightly strange one – chargrilled oysters with buttermilk. A warm oyster is an acquired taste and for me the creamy milk didn’t sit with the coastal tang – but I appreciated the inventiveness.

The duck ham with chicory was strong tasting, quite aggressive and generally pleasing. The bitter citrus hit of the accompanying clementine was one to remember.

Heads or tails, as it was mysteriously described on the menu, was in fact a couple of blow-torched sardines.

Inventive

The flesh was tender and delicious with cracked salt, and the frazzled skeleton was like a fishy crisp. Tasty, nice and light, we only left the head and tail of the fish. Which might be a clue to the name (although I am told some people wolf down the craniums).

The pork neck was fantastic; succulent well-flavoured meat, caramelised apple, and an elegant helping of crackling, kale and squash.

This was the most substantial course out of the six and pretty much the best.

I was slightly worried by the parsnip tart pud, but the vegetable’s natural sweetness came out in spades and sat alongside the vodka minimilk ice cream with aplomb.

The food at Season Kitchen is bold and inventive –some of it works amazingly well and some seems a bit over complicated.

You can’t help but appreciate the thought and effort that have gone into it, though, and the Sunday taster menu is a fantastic, and cheap, way to sample what’s offer.

Related articles

Latest Stories

7 minutes ago
The man was found with a stab wound and bite marks on Wanstead Flats (Picture: PA Images/Stefan Rousseau)

Two teenage girls have been arrested after a man was found stabbed and bitten on Wanstead Flats by firefighters called to put out a grass fire.

Read more
54 minutes ago
Veronica Sbircea was last seen at 1.30pm on Sunday at her home address in Ponders End, Enfield (Picture: Metropolitan Police)

Police in Enfield said they are ‘growing increasingly concerned’ for the welfare of missing 14-year-old girl Veronica Sbircea.

Read more
Yesterday, 19:53
The brutal attack occurred on this quiet avenue in Mitcham [Photograph from Google StreetView]

Police are hunting for four thugs who stabbed a young man in the back in Mitcham.

Read more

Top Stories

Promotions

Advanced running and training technology for beginners up to elite athletes

If you’re thinking of adding running treadmill to your fitness routine, you’re on the right track! There are several advantages to running on a treadmill versus running outdoors.

Renault-Zoe

The Renault ZOE follows on from the introduction of the electric Fluence ZE and Twizy, but unlike the former, the ZOE was designed from the ground up as an electric vehicle.

When no simple way to find Real Ale was at hand, 4 Ale enthusiasts got together to allow anyone with a smart phone to find Real Ale no matter where they happened to be, this was the birth of the Perfect Pint app.

Quizzes

Do you fancy yourself as a football ground know-it-all? Try our devilishly difficult quiz!

How well do you know your football stadiums? This brand new quiz from London24 will seperate the men from the boys...

Read more
Do you know your Thames truths from the porkie pies? (Photo by Mike Hewitt/Getty Images)

So, you live (or work) in London, and you think you know the river well.

Read more
Diego Costa of Chelsea exchanges words with Cesc Fabregas (Photo by Chris Brunskill/Getty Images)

Chelsea have made several personnel changes over the course of the summer as they look to mount a squad that can challenge for the title.

Read more