Restaurant review: Trullo, N1

12:55 25 January 2013

Tim Siadatan hard at work

Tim Siadatan hard at work

Archant

»Trullo is one of those places I’d been meaning to go for ages – it always looks nice inside and I’d heard great things about the food.

And I’m clearly not the only one; the place was packed to the rafters and full of pleasant hustle and bustle on our visit early one Saturday night.

So it’s a good job they’ve just expanded and opened a second dining room downstairs, which is in lovely contrast to the upstairs; instead of huge windows its all dark and cosy, with snug little alcoves. You miss out on the open kitchen, but there was a table available, so definitely a worthy trade off.

Head chef and former Jamie Oliver protege Tim Siadatan’s Italian inspired menu came printed on flimsy paper, which makes me think it gets changed pretty regularly. On our visit there were three or four options in each of the antipasti, primi, oven and grill sections.

Meat, fish and veggie options were all represented, including some adventurous numbers like ravioli of calves’ brain. We opted for a more reserved fare: braised cuttlefish, which was a touch on the slimy side but full of flavour with a lovely hit of garlic from the aioli.

The ox tongue was tender and strong tasting, and elegantly simple with a side of baked green beans.

Another example of effective simplicity was the excellent sea bream. Grilled whole and delicately seasoned – the fish was allowed to speak for itself in the best dish of the night. Our lamb shoulder was slow-cooked but came out nice and pink and wonderfully succulent, with just the right amount of minty salsa verde.

We also shared some wickedly buttery soft new potatoes – a naughty treat that we didn’t manage to finish.

Italian classics populated the desert menu, but we went for the cheese selection; a full-on gorgonzola, a hard, nutty Taleggio la Baita and a creamy Ubracio made a great combination.

Restaurant info:

Trullo, 300 - 302 St Paul’s Road, N1 2lH

Tube: Highbury and Islington

Tel: 020 7226 2733

Web: www.trullorestaurant.com

Mains: from £15

Wine: from £18

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: No

Trullo is all I’d hoped it would be – the food is great, there’s a lovely selection of wine (the staff were very helpful when negotiating the long list) and it all comes at a price that encourages repeat visits.

Related articles

Latest Stories

09:44
Who'd have thought you could bed down here for the night? (Photo by Matthew Lloyd/Getty Images)

How do you fancy a sleeping over on the 72nd floor of The Shard?

Read more
Victim Susanne Suhonen, whose face we have blurred to protect her identity.

A keen amateur pianist whose finger was broken in a violent robbery outside her home faces the prospect of never being able to play properly again, after one of her attackers was jailed for nine years.

Read more
Ashley Fagan was warned he may face jail.

An axe fight that left a teenager’s hand hanging from his wrist, was a spat between members of two rival gangs, a court was told.

Read more

Top Stories

Promotions

Advanced running and training technology for beginners up to elite athletes

If you’re thinking of adding running treadmill to your fitness routine, you’re on the right track! There are several advantages to running on a treadmill versus running outdoors.

Renault-Zoe

The Renault ZOE follows on from the introduction of the electric Fluence ZE and Twizy, but unlike the former, the ZOE was designed from the ground up as an electric vehicle.

When no simple way to find Real Ale was at hand, 4 Ale enthusiasts got together to allow anyone with a smart phone to find Real Ale no matter where they happened to be, this was the birth of the Perfect Pint app.

Quizzes

I'm only going to say this once: Stand. On. The. Right.

James Bond is Britain’s most famous secret agent, and the capital is its most famous city, so it makes sense that 007 would live and work here when he isn’t gallivanting around the world.

Read more
Can you find the animals hiding in London station names? (Photo by Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images)

You may not realise it but there are animals hiding in stations across London? Play our quiz and see if you can you find them:

Read more
Can you guess the Tube station just from the outside? (Photo by Oli Scarff/Getty Images)

How well do you know your Tube stations? Can you guess these Underground stops from the pictures taken outside them?

Read more