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This little Crouch end eaterie used to be known as Sosta Ristorante, but is now run by chef Christian Matricciani who has brought recipes and cooking skills from San Remo in the Italian Riviera as well as his 20 years of experience.

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Restaurant info:

Qui Restaurant, 14 Middle Lane, N8 8PL. Station: Hornsey/Crouch Hill. Tel: 020 8341 0527. Web: www.quirestaurant.com

Wine: from £14.50 a bottle

Mains: from £9.50

Disabled access: No

Children allowed: Yes

And on a dull Friday night, the dishes provided all the excitement we needed.

The chicken with wild mushrooms and white wine sauce was well crafted and went down a treat with a side of home-made potatoes.

But hands down the best dish of the night was medallions of monkfish wrapped in smoked pancetta, lemon sauce and steamed French beans. It was delicious and the fleshy fish was fibrous, full of flavour yet delicate on the palette.

For pudding, the chocolate cake with banana frambere and the almond mon blanche was far too rich for me, but my guest tucked into it with gusto.

Qui offers good Italian cuisine in surroundings as comfortable as your own home.

The food seems authentic, the menu is uncompromisingly Italian and there were no shortcuts in the preparation of the excellent dishes which we enjoyed with some relish.

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