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North London pubs that have given up their kitchen to a Thai food franchise are 10 a penny. Some of them are good, but many offer nothing more than a gelatinous ball of sticky rice and a limp, watery curry.

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Less common is a hostelry taking real pride in the venture and offering the standard of Siamese cuisine that is available in the Clarendon.

Formerly known as the Nobody Inn, the Clarendon has enlisted the help of Thai master chef Toi, a previous winner of an award from Archant – the company which publishes the Gazette – for his efforts to cook up a menu of real choice and flavour.

Our soups were excellent – hot and sour and wonton respectively – complete with invigorating spices and chunky meat and vegetables.

The crispy coated mushrooms and prawn in a golden blanket were both moist, battered delights. And the main courses were also immensely satisfying – the red curry had a good kick but not enough to overpower the rest of the flavours.

Restaurant info:

The Clarendon,

92 Mildmay Park

N1 4PR

Tel: 020 7249 6430

Mains: From £6.95

Wines: £14.95 a bottle

Children welcome: Yes, before 7pm

Disabled access: No disabled toilet

The sizzling beef hotplate was a heady and aromatic delight and the weeping tiger – chargrilled strips of steak with a mint, coriander and lime dressing – was a very toothsome combination.

The price is right, and with the pub serving a good selection of ales, the Clarendon is perfect for a quick bite on a Saturday afternoon – or indeed any day of the week.

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