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Pop-up specialists Walbrook and Avon have found a semi-permanent home at F Cooke in Broadway Market – one of those lovely old fashioned pie and mash shops beloved of trendy young foodies.

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Restaurant info:

Walbrook and Avon

at F. Cooke,

9 Broadway Market,

E8 4PH

Station: London Fields

Mains: from £8

Wine: BYOB (£2 corkage)

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes, no toilet

Delightful though they are, they come with a familiar set of problems; a bit chilly, slightly uncomfortable seats and Victorian-era water closets.

But this never puts people off and expect to share your table at busy times. Cushions are also available and good use has been made of limited cooking facilities.

Plus it’s an absolute bargain – three courses for under £20 and £2 corkage on your own booze represents a pretty cheap meal.

We started off with the signature Devils on Horseback; crisp salty bacon wrapped around sweet, fleshy prunes. A tasty morsel, but not as good as the squid and chorizo – a sizzling, tangy treat.

The lemon chicken with olives was pleasant enough and had lots of Mediterranean promise, but the fowl was cooked a bit too long and lost some texture.

Pick of the dishes was the butternut squash gratin with feta and spinach served in a lovely little pot, with layers of flavour emerging slowly from beneath the crusted breadcrumb topping. A hearty winter meal.

The atmosphere is very cosy and congenial and it felt a bit like eating at home, although without the washing up. If you can get in, you should give it a whirl – it might not be around for ever.

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